Lengthy seen as “filler espresso,” canephora—identified in Brazil as conilon—is experiencing a renaissance. At present, we’re chatting with Lucas Venturim of Venturim Farms to study extra.
BY ISABELLE MANI
BARISTA MAGAZINE ONLINE
Pictures courtesy of Lucas Venturim
We’ve coated canephora (Coffea canephora, also referred to as robusta espresso), extensively previously, discussing how the species has historically been seen as “filler espresso” however is at present present process a revival. Lately, producers, scientists, and high quality advocates have been working to redefine canephora’s function within the specialty and premium segments, and right now, we’re chatting with Lucas Venturim to study extra.
Lucas, from Venturim Farms, is a producer and roaster from Espírito Santo, Brazil’s largest canephora-producing state. His household’s shift from volume-driven farming to flavor-focused innovation exhibits what’s attainable when canephora is approached with care, science, and curiosity.
A Transient Background: Canephora Manufacturing in Brazil
Whereas Brazil is the world’s high producer of arabica, it’s additionally the second-largest supply of robusta, accounting for about 25% of worldwide quantity. The nation has two official Designations of Origin for the species—Montanhas do Espírito Santo and Matas de Rondônia—with smaller manufacturing in Bahia, Pará, and Acre.
Canephora reproduces by way of cross-pollination, and its genetic range is essential to its resilience and taste potential. Kouillou-type crops, a part of the Guinean group, arrived in Brazil by way of Angola and the Republic of Congo within the mid-Twentieth century. They had been launched throughout efforts to rebuild espresso manufacturing after devastating frosts struck arabica farms within the south, shifting cultivation towards Espírito Santo’s tropical lowlands. There, the crops tailored effectively and have become identified regionally as conilon. Till just lately, in the event you requested about robusta costs in Brazil, the probably reply was: “We solely farm conilon.”
Within the Nineteen Eighties and 90s, analysis centered primarily on yield, pest resistance, and drought tolerance. Sensory high quality wasn’t but a part of the image. However previously decade, producers have begun exploring post-harvest methods and cup potential—to not mimic arabica, however to spotlight canephora’s personal character. Robusta by no means lacked high quality—it lacked a quality-focused method.
Trying forward, Brazil is getting ready to launch the Canephora Taste Wheel in 2025. Created by Dr. Fabiana Carvalho (from the Espresso Sensorium analysis venture) and Dr. Lucas Louzada, together with the involvement of 4 worldwide universities, the venture analyzed 67 samples from 13 nations over 5 years. Solely volunteer-supported, it acquired no main funding. The findings shall be printed open-access, and the wheel shall be out there on a pay-what-you-can foundation. Its objective: to explain canephora’s sensory attributes on their very own phrases—not compared to arabica.
Q&A with Lucas Venturim
Isabelle Mani: When did the standard dialog begin to take form in Brazil?
Lucas: For arabica, it actually began across the Nineties. With canephora, it took a few decade longer. From the early 2000s, a shift started—individuals like my father, who had expertise with arabica, knew that cup high quality was attainable. He used to say that arabica wasn’t good simply because it was arabica; it was good when it was ripe and well-produced. And that caught with us.
In 2007, we determined to transform 100% of our farm to concentrate on specialty manufacturing. And little by little, establishments began catching up. In 2012, throughout the centennial celebration of canephora in Espírito Santo, INCAPER (the Capixaba Institute of Analysis, Technical Help, and Rural Extension) launched three new cultivars: Jequitibá, Diamante, and Centenário—all chosen with a concentrate on cup high quality along with agronomic traits.
When did you begin experimenting with fermentation and sensory innovation?
In 2015, my spouse and I found on-line the existence of the Brazilian Worldwide Espresso Week (SIC), and we determined to go. That’s the place we first heard about fermenting coffees. We reached out to a Norwegian roaster who was giving a course, and though he was totally booked for the journey to Espirito Santo, he agreed to go to our farm in early 2016. He confirmed us a Espresso of the Yr-winning arabica—fermented—and that was our turning level.
That very same yr, we did our first fermentation checks. We didn’t even know the way to do cupping again then, however the flavors had been so totally different that we knew we had been on to one thing. In 2017, we teamed up with the Federal Institute of Espírito Santo (IFES) and Dr. Lucas Louzada (from the Taste Wheel Initiative) and carried out 120 fermentation experiments throughout harvest. We took the most effective samples to SIC that yr. They had been tiny tons—5kg right here, 10kg there—however the response was massively optimistic.
By 2018, we scaled up and enrolled our coffees in Cup of Excellence (CoE)’s nationwide canephora competitors (Observe: Brazil’s Cup of Excellence chapter is the one one with a canephora class).
Three of our tons made it to the highest 5, all utilizing fermentation methods. That was additionally the yr we turned members of BSCA and made our first worldwide export of tremendous robusta to Russia, to Valentina Moksunova of Hummingbird Espresso. That sale occurred at a value thrice larger than the commodity market.
How did roasting play a job within the evolution of conilon?
That was one of many greatest bottlenecks. Most individuals roasted canephora like arabica, utilizing the identical profile. However conilon has a denser construction and desires extra power and time. If you happen to underdevelop it, it finally ends up tasting like popcorn or peanuts—these traditional under-roasted notes. So we based our roastery, Torra Paixão, in 2017, to assist purchasers perceive correct roast curves and unlock canephora’s true potential.
To this present day, once we ship samples to new purchasers, we regularly embody a roasted reference. The objective isn’t to offend anybody—it’s simply to assist them see what this espresso can develop into.
What’s subsequent for conilon in Brazil—and globally?
I consider we’re simply getting began. In Brazil alone, we now produce round 50,000 luggage of high-quality conilon a yr, particularly in Espírito Santo, but in addition in Rondônia and Bahia. Loads of that goes to export—Italy, Russia, the U.Okay., and more and more to components of Asia. We see blends utilizing 20 to 30% tremendous conilon now.
To me, the largest mistake is treating canephora and arabica as in the event that they had been the identical factor. They’re two totally different drinks. Our job isn’t to repeat arabica—it’s to point out what canephora can do on its phrases. That’s the place the longer term lies.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Isabelle Mani (she/her) is a author, journalist, and communicator specializing within the worldwide espresso business. Since 2017, she has centered on writing articles and options for varied worldwide espresso information retailers. Isabelle has traveled to coffee-producing nations reminiscent of Colombia, Kenya, Rwanda, China, and Brazil to check and analysis espresso. She holds coaching certifications from the Specialty Espresso Affiliation (SCA) and the Espresso High quality Institute (Arabica Q Grading).
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