We communicate to Tú, the creator of the Phinoi filter, about his store’s pay-as-you-feel mannequin and his perception in high-quality robusta.
BY VASILEIA FANARIOTI
SENIOR ONLINE CORRESPONDENT
Photographs courtesy of Vu Dình Tú
In Vietnam’s fast-evolving specialty-coffee scene, Refined. stands out not only for its concentrate on high-quality robusta, however for its unconventional enterprise mannequin and deeply cultural strategy to brewing.
On the middle of this motion is Vu Dình Tú, a former finance skilled turned roaster, barista, educator, and now innovator. We spoke with Tú about his journey—from bed room roasting periods to operating espresso outlets in Hanoi and designing his personal phin filter, the Phinoi—all whereas redefining what Vietnamese espresso may be.
Vasileia Fanarioti: Tú, you’ve constructed one thing actually distinctive with Refined.—particularly along with your “pay-as-you-feel” mannequin. How did that come about?
Tú: It occurred very naturally. To start with, I simply wished to roast espresso for myself and some pals. After leaving my finance job through the pandemic, I began roasting at house with a small borrowed roaster. Once I opened my first tiny café—solely 27 sq. meters—it wasn’t meant to be a full store, only a place the place folks might purchase beans and learn to brew.
At first, I supplied free cups of espresso simply to share the expertise. However folks stored coming again, and finally somebody insisted on paying. They dropped cash right into a phin filter we had on the counter, and others began doing the identical. That’s how the mannequin was born. It wasn’t a technique; it was a neighborhood selection.
And the way has it developed since then?
For the primary two years, I used to be all the time the one behind the bar, so I might actually see how feelings affect what folks give. Some days, somebody would possibly put in 100 {dollars}. Different occasions, much less. However that’s the fantastic thing about it. We nonetheless maintain the mannequin at this time, for just a few menu objects—principally our signature robusta drinks. There’s no mounted value. It’s about belief and connection.
You additionally focus closely on high-quality robusta, which many individuals in specialty espresso nonetheless overlook. What impressed you to take that path?
I used to solely drink arabica too. However throughout my early roasting days, I found a high-quality robusta that modified the whole lot. I visited farms within the Central Highlands, talked with producers, and experimented with roast profiles. I spotted that, when correctly cultivated and processed, robusta may be simply as advanced and scrumptious as arabica. But it surely’s been misunderstood—related to bitterness, low high quality, or components.
With Refined., I wished to alter that narrative. We now serve about 70% robusta throughout our outlets. And it’s not simply Vietnamese clients—foreigners have gotten extra open to it too.
A giant a part of that mission appears to be tied to the phin filter. Why is it vital to you?
The phin is a part of our cultural id, however many younger Vietnamese at this time don’t know easy methods to use it. That fearful me. It’s like we’re shedding a chunk of who we’re. So final yr, I launched a undertaking to revamp the normal phin—conserving its essence however modernizing its design to attraction to the following era.
We now provide colourful, modern phins that make brewing extra approachable and exquisite. We even debuted them (in Might) at World of Espresso in Jakarta, and so they have been offered out. It was a proud second to symbolize Vietnamese espresso on this manner.
So it’s not nearly serving espresso—it’s about preserving and reshaping a convention?
Precisely. In our outlets, we don’t simply hand folks a cup. We invite them to expertise your complete brewing course of: the aroma, the bloom, the pour. We began with no menu—simply black espresso or condensed milk. Ultimately, clients introduced elements and challenged us to create new drinks. That’s how we constructed the menu, drink by drink, with them.
And what’s subsequent for you and Refined.?
I wish to proceed connecting robusta with different elements of Vietnamese tradition—like meals. We’ve began creating drinks that blend robusta with apricot or dracontomelon, each native fruits. The suggestions has been wonderful, even from vacationers. I additionally wish to maintain mentoring younger baristas and provides them an actual profession path. Being a barista shouldn’t be only a scholar job. It’s a craft that deserves respect—and a residing wage.
One final thing: What would you say to people who find themselves nonetheless skeptical about robusta?
I’d say: Overlook what you assume you understand. Are available in, sit, brew a cup with the phin, and style it for your self. Let the espresso communicate. That’s all we ask.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Vasileia Fanarioti (she/her) is a senior on-line correspondent for Barista Journal and a contract copywriter and editor with a main concentrate on the espresso area of interest. She has additionally been a volunteer copywriter for the I’M NOT A BARISTA NPO, offering content material to assist educate folks about baristas and their work.
