Mikolaj Pociecha continues his exploration of all issues canephora with his newest guide. At the moment, we share an outline and unique evaluate of the latest launch.
BY TANYA NANETTI
SENIOR ONLINE CORRESPONDENT
Pictures courtesy of Mikolaj Pociecha
Mikolaj Pociecha is a family title for anybody desirous about discovering out extra about the canephora espresso species. A barista, roaster, and author, Mikolaj revealed a small guide a few years in the past known as “Canephora,” which, by means of interviews, technical insights, and deep reflections, introduces newbies and connoisseurs to the attention-grabbing world of canephora. After months of examine and analysis, Mikolaj is able to return to the topic due to his newest guide, “Robusta/Canephora (a short information to loving it),” a super sequel to the primary guide.
After lastly assembly Mikolaj in individual at the newest Amsterdam Espresso Pageant, I had the distinctive alternative to learn the guide earlier than its official launch this previous Could—a chance that allowed me to search out out extra about this typically neglected species.
Preliminary Ideas + the Guide’s Introduction
Proper from the primary web page, it’s clear what Mikolaj’s objective was in writing the guide, which was created with the aim of being “a useful useful resource for studying how one can respect and work with canephora/robusta as a espresso skilled.” Mainly, the guide is a brief essay that may train baristas and roasters (but in addition anybody merely within the topic) how one can study to like the espresso species.
At first look, the guide’s record of its 20 chapters—which promise to cowl the whole lot about robusta—already piqued my curiosity. Mikolaj’s journey guarantees to take readers from the fundamentals of the species to its particular flavors, to recommended methods on how finest to roast, put together, and luxuriate in it—all peppered with interviews with some canephora connoisseurs.
Intrigued, I jumped into the studying.
After just a little clarification on the aim of the guide (which was initially purported to be centered on how one can roast canephora, however has since shifted to being a extra complete guide, to keep away from an excessive amount of heaviness), Mikolaj states within the introduction what the next chapters might be about: not solely offering useful insights into the roasting course of, but in addition “to talk about this matter together with others in relation to the species, individuals, and the challenges we face.”
Delving Deeper
Lastly, it was time to begin the guide.
A quick background of canephora—overlaying totally different info in regards to the species, from genetics to the darkish historical past of espresso’s connection to colonialism—precedes a small chapter specializing in the most effective method to check with the species. Is it higher to go by the extra broadly used “robusta,” or is it higher to undertake the extra scientific time period “canephora”?
SPOILER: Each phrases have an extended historical past, and each can have constructive and unfavorable overtones, relying on the context (which is why, for the remainder of the piece, I’ll use them interchangeably). As Mikolaj explains, “The species was initially named ‘Coffea canephora’ by Luis Pierre in 1895. It was first despatched to Java, Indonesia (then a Dutch colony), underneath the title ‘robusta’ between 1889 and 1900 by the Netherlands. For higher or worse, the title caught.”
Mikolaj continues, “Robusta has typically been perceived as inferior, resulting in a stigma across the title. On this context, the time period ‘Coffea canephora’ offers some aid from that unfavorable notion.”
Particular Friends All through the Guide
After delving into the title concern, it’s time for Mikolaj to incorporate the primary of many attention-grabbing company. Right here, Isabelle Mani, a author and occasional researcher, shares all her information in regards to the historical past and economics of robusta. It is a temporary historical past of the species, from its unique “industrial” vacation spot to specialty canephora, with, in between, an attention-grabbing recollection of robusta’s rise in reputation as a result of unfold of soluble espresso post-World Battle II.
Then comes a fast overview from Isabelle on robusta genetics and scientific analysis, and at last, an outline of what’s occurring right this moment in relation to canephora (fermentation strategies, the canephora aroma wheel, and many others.).
From right here on, the guide goes on to combine chapters by Mikolaj himself (coping with the style of robusta, a recollection of the most effective robustas the writer has skilled through the years, and data on the most effective water to make use of for brewing canephora) with another interviews. Judith Konsten, selector of Q Robusta and Q Arabica, presents the advantageous robusta and its distinctive qualities; Reza Nurullah, a espresso farmer from Central Java, shares his immense information of all issues robusta, together with his ideas for processing, roasting, and brewing; and Rohan Kuriyan, a fifth-generation farmer from India specializing in espresso, tea, pepper, and areca nut, shares his household method to rising and processing robusta.
Conclusion + A Last Visitor Creator
It’s then time for Mikolaj to conclude the guide with the 2 longest chapters, interrupted by the intervention of a last visitor speaker. The chapter “Recipes” is itself divided into two components, which embody recipes labeled “NA” (three separate recipes for ibrik, Pulsar, and pourover), and “The Bar,” which incorporates recipes for an espresso martini, negroni chilly brew and Irish espresso, utilizing canephora as the bottom for the espresso, which the books describes as good due to “its boldness, viscosity, and acquainted scrumptious espresso taste.”
The dear contribution by Bhavi Patel, “Tasting Canephora and Speaking About It,” is the final prolonged visitor essay included within the guide, earlier than Mikolaj takes the ground one final time for essentially the most essential half, “The Roasting Part.” As Mikolaj shares from the start, that is the primary matter he initially sought to cowl.
Analyzing the whole lot there may be to know, from double-layer defects to temperature management, smokey and baked flavors, and so forth, this final chapter is a broad overview of the whole lot associated to roasting canephora, together with tips for drum roasters and an instance of a roasting profile. Positively the toughest half to learn if you’re not already a roasting fanatic, with its many graphs and scientific and technical explanations, this final chapter is tailored for these already conversant in roasting strategies.
A Guide for Newcomers and Connoisseurs Alike
Whatever the extra technical components of the guide, total, Mikolaj’s “Robusta/Canephora” is one thing that may attraction to all those that are desirous about studying extra about canephora—whether or not professionals or simply espresso lovers—due to the partaking writing approach and attention-grabbing matters lined.
As he got down to do from the very starting, Mikolaj has succeeded in hitting his aim in full: to totally clarify all of the nerdier issues about canephora, whereas sustaining a well-deserved deal with the individuals and tales behind it, to provide greater than mandatory which means and background. It’s undoubtedly a must-read for anybody even remotely desirous about studying extra about robusta.
To order a duplicate, click on right here.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Tanya Nanetti (she/her) is a specialty-coffee barista, a traveler, and a dreamer. When she’s not behind the espresso machine (or visiting some hidden nook of the world), she’s busy writing for Espresso Rebellion, an internet site about specialty espresso that she’s creating alongside along with her boyfriend.
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