Compiled from the notes of Felipe Croce of Fazenda Ambiental Fortaleza
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Obatã is a varietal developed on the IAC (Instituto de Agronomia de Campinas) within the metropolis of Campinas, state of São Paulo. This institute has been the premier genetic research within the nation of Brazil for the previous couple of centuries.
The Obatã varietal is a hybrid, it consists of:
Arabica Mundo Novo crossed with Sarchimor
*Sarchimor is the Hybrid of Timor crossed with Vila Sarchi
This consequence was crossed a number of instances over with Mundo Novo till a consequence was discovered known as Tupi.
The Tupi is a varietal planted in our area which is immune to illness and has an elevated acidity, a giant physique and a really distinctive style typically remembering bell peppers.
The Tupi was then crossed with Crimson Catuai to develop into the varietal Crimson Obatã. This plant we predict is about 95% Arabica origin with 5% robusta. It is rather nicely tailored to the São Paulo and South of Minas local weather, immune to illness with a cup profile of elevated acidity, huge physique and excessive sweetness with a definite floral attribute compared to different varietals on an analogous plot.
In 2010 whereas I used to be solely in my third 12 months on the farm I had a prejudice in opposition to something not 100% arabica. This got here from articles I discovered on-line or at institutes in addition to feedback I had heard from worldwide roasters and occasional consumers. At some point at one in all our accomplice farmer João Hamilton’s home, he commented how he was so blissful along with his Obatã lot as a result of it had all ripened completely and he had picked them on the peak of ripeness.
Now, in addition to my prejudice, I used to be huge into measuring the BRIX readings on the mucilage of every lot as they got here in. The complete Arabica strains at peak ripeness would are available in at 26-35% the place Obatã and Tupi and among the different Hybrids like Icatu could be round 18-22 on the similar visible state of maturation.
Thus, a lot to his chagrin, I advised João Hamilton that it was nice that he had carried out such a pristine job on the selecting however that he mustn’t prioritize this lot because it was a hybrid and possibly wouldn’t cup that nicely.
And João Hamilton did simply as I mentioned. As coffees got here in and the patios grew to become full he pushed the ripe Obatã lot thick into one finish of the raised mattress and left it untouched. A lot completely different to our drying course of on the time which was rail skinny and raking as many instances a day as potential.
I had vivid reminiscences of pulling as much as his patios alongside the following couple of weeks, as this espresso took over 30 days to dry, and smelling a powerful ferment taste.
Again at our cupping lab at FAF we have been busy cupping via the harvest heaps as they got here in and Australian roaster and good pal Justin Miles was spending a month at FAF. Justin was on the time shopping for for Melbourne espresso roaster Seven Seeds and later went on to affix Kris Schackman at 5 Elephant. At some point as we have been blazing via our widespread 5 desk a day 14 espresso lot tables we floor a espresso that despatched off an explosion of floral aromas into the room. Already espresso excessive and cupping many related coffees we received very excited and I needed to break our blind cupping code and search for what lot this was. Upon discovering out this lot was the Obatã, I requested my assistant Simone to test and recheck her notes and even name João Hamilton to ensure there had not been a combination up; nonetheless, actually her notes have been proper and this espresso went on to get the best rating of any espresso at FAF up till at present – 94 factors.
This espresso occurred to be a small lot as João Hamilton had turned his focus to rigorously selecting different heaps. In the long run we had 3.5 luggage which we had two unfold between 4 espresso consumers in Sweden, Norway, US and São Paulo who all fought tooth and nail for a bit.
Regrouping at Sitio Canaã we tried to grasp what had occurred. Not solely did we resolve to relook on the Obatã varietal however we determined to vary our drying course of – which we stay tweaking to this present day. We retraced our steps and I discovered this lot was truly one in all João’s neighbor’s farm whom had moved to town and deserted his espresso. João was caring for this man’s farm as he was previous and had no sons and no intention to maneuver again and have a tendency to the vegetation.
My father, Marcos, grew to become enchanted with the property and requested if João Hamilton wished to accomplice on the land. Thus, Sitio Novo Canaã was born as FAF rented the land and João Hamilton and his brother tended to the vegetation.
The land had been degraded and the vegetation poorly tended to and after three years of heavy fertilization and pruning the timber began to return again to life.
Kris from 5 Elephant started coming to the farm yearly on the finish of harvest and meticulously cupping via our heaps and have become enchanted with the Obatã varietal and the heaps from Sitio Novo Canaã. Through the 2016 harvest he despatched one in all his barista, Bara Ernygrova, to the farm for six months to assist us all through harvest. Thus, the challenge with 5 Elephant, FAF and Sitio Novo Canaã was born as we separated a bit of this farm for Kris. in 2016 we utterly minimize all agro-toxic chemical compounds and commenced to implement inexperienced fertilization methods in between the rows in addition to planting fruit timber akin to oranges and avacados for shade. The mission right here is to convey again fertilization and life into the soil in order that we are able to totally transition this plot to natural.
